I would highly suggest checking out part 1 first!
Apparently the postal service hates me. The trims, beads, cameos, rhinestones, and pearls I ordered haven’t arrived yet (which is actually slightly worry some since I ordered them over two weeks ago) this means I can’t finish my sleeves, or the skirt. And also messes up my whole post-about-a-single-topic-a-week plan.
Instead of posting about making the sleeves from start to finish I’m going to make this a combined post showing the first half of the sleeves + the first half of the skirt.
AKA everything seen here (aside from the collar)
I’ll start with the sleeves.
Quilting is something I’ve grown up around….though it’s not something I’ve ever attempted before, so I knew it would be a bit of an adventure. But even knowing this it was the least of my sleeve related worries. I was more concerned about the poofy part of the sleeves.
I have a little fear of sleeves…they confuse me, to say the least. I find them tricky to alter, fit, and understand in general. After a solid six months or so I finally, finally(!) understand a little bit more about them and can draft/sew them to a point where they fit well(enough).
Excluding poofy sleeves, of course.
I understand the logic behind them…but still they scare me. My past attempts at poofy sleeves resulted in tight-on-the-top-not-so-poofy-sleeves, or the alternate bigger-then-my-head-clown-sleeves. Neither of which were the look I wanted at all. And in this case I didn’t have a whole lot of spare fabric, so I kind of really needed it to come out okay the first time.
I came across this pattern and decided to give it a go:
I drafted out the fig.2 pattern and made a rectangle big enough for the pattern piece to fit inside. I can’t remember the exact size, but I cut a rectangle with matching dimensions out of taffeta, muslin, and batting.
I marked out the quilting design on the rectangle of starched muslin.
I pinned in such a way it created a sandwich with batting in the middle, and taffeta/muslin on the outside.
I turned the stitch length up a bit, and turned my tension down (because it’s kind of like topstitching, right?)
And after maybe half an hour of fumbling around I had one panel quilted!
I marked my pattern out with sharpie and sewed around the edge.
And cut it out.
For some reason I didn’t take photos of me adding the rhinestones. Actually, I’m pretty certain I DID take photos of that step…where those photos ended up? Not a clue. I can tell you that the process was pretty simple; I just glued 3mm white rhinestones onto the points of each diamond.
Then I marked out the gathering points and used the previously mentioned ‘zig-zag’ ruffling method to create the gathers. This is what that looked like:
At the time I was pretty okay with how this turned out, but after a week of looking at it I was no longer pleased by it. The shape seemed…wrong, not nearly rounded enough. So I ripped out the gathering, cut an inch off the bottom, and re-gathered it. I liked the size a lot more, but the shape wasn’t quite right. It kept collapsing down on itself (probably due to the material thickness)
So I stuffed them with squares of quilt batting.
Then I was much more pleased with it.
This shows it without the additional batting, but you can get an idea of the new shape.
Once that was done I made the cuff, which also got little diamonds quilted onto it.
The last thing I needed to figure out was the full length sleeve. I measured my upper arm, elbow, wrist, and a few points in between, also taking care to mark the length between each arm width measurement. This easily translated into a pattern. I cut the pattern out of white knit four way stretch fabric. The fabric was slightly see-through so I used two layers.
And voila, the three pieces needed for my finished sleeve!
Once sewn together they look like so!
I’m in love with how these fit, and the shape they have, but they are missing details. Trim around the cuff, centered cameo in the middle of the cuff, rhinestone borders, pearls around the wrists etc. Really easy things to add which will help dress this up…but they are things that haven’t arrived just yet.
Onto the skirt!
Please keep in mind this doesn’t have any embellishments just yet. It will get a look more dramatic, fancier, prettier, and more organized once I add on to it.
Since I already had my bustle/petticoat made, there wasn’t a lot of actual work to do on the skirt. I ordered this wonderful gold leafing trim from etsy and sewed it onto a 10 1/2″ wide strip of (300″ long) ivory fabric.
I double hemmed it before adding the trim, in case that wasn’t obvious. I used the zig-zag method of ruffling (see previous post for tutorial) to make it into a ruffle.
I cut that out of the ivory taffeta, sewed it onto the ruffle, and ended up with this:
The blue ruffle is made of 5 1/2″ wide strips with a double hem and 1/4″ gold/ivory braid cording sewn 1/2 from the hem. Silk taffeta is kind of a bitch to sew, so it took slightly longer than I had anticipated (so much ironing, and puckering, wow.)
I used the same bustle pattern that was used for the ivory layer, but added four inches onto each dimension before cutting it from the blue material. When that was cut I gathered down each edge and sewed it onto the proper sized muslin pattern piece. I’m not sure if this makes sense, but it looked like this:
And how it looks worn
As you can see in the final picture my wig arrived! It needs a lot of styling but it’s a perfect base, i’m ridiculously pleased with it. I might do a review..might not, we’ll see.
The next post relating to this project will be up in two weeks or so. It’ll either be about the corset & collar or a continuation post of the skirt.