“Pretty Pirate Project” – Part Three

My studio is a sad place right now, this month I’m due to finish five projects, some of which are just a few weeks old, others have been around for months. It’s exciting, since I get to start new things, but it’s also weird having it be so empty!

This will probably be the final post in the Pretty Pirate Project series, unless I think the sashes, eyepatch, and hat are exciting enough to deserve one….Which at this point, I don’t. So don’t get your hopes up.

If you haven’t been keeping up with this project I suggest you check out Part one which talks about the design, and how the shorts were made. And Part two which talks about the tunic and bustier.

The final garment I had to make for this project was the jacket. I actually expected this to be a lot more challenging then it was…I don’t know if I’m getting better at sewing, or if this project was easy,  or I got lucky, but everything seemed to go really smoothly? It makes me dread  my next project since it can’t possible go as well as this one.

I went ahead and draped the jacket pattern. I wanted it to have the cut and style of an 18th century mens jacket, but I wanted the interesting seaming of a women’s riding jacket from the same period. I already had the image in my mind, so I didn’t use reference, but I found these images that show what I was going for;

The photo is from Hermitage Museum and the other is a stock photo from here.

justaucorps-1710-Hermitage museum

I wanted to wear it open, so the rest of my outfit could be seen beneath it. But I also wanted it to be able to close loosely, with an inch or so of ease on each side so it wouldn’t be tight. 

I kept all that in mind when draping, and in the end it looed like this!


I did make a mock up, but the photos are lost somewhere and the mock up was demolished, so have a few photos of the pieces laid flat.



And the sleeves. These were crazy and took ages to fit right, I kept getting ugly puckers or they wouldn’t hang right. I’m still not entirely happy with them, but I couldn’t find any way to improve them.


The fit was quite nice, so the only real alteration was adding two inches to the front panel (which will be hidden and given a finished edge) and adding two inches to the hem.

Cutting this out was pretty crazy, I only bought two and a half yards of fabric since it was $10 a yard and i’m a cheap human being. I seriously only have a handful of scraps left over, and none of them are more then three inches wide. 

Then the jacket was assembled, and collar facings were added.





The fabric was really nice to work with, it didn’t give me any trouble and all the panels were assembled in an evening. Then I moved on and hand sewed everything down so you wouldn’t see topstitching. I did this all with a fancy criss cross stitch I learned in class, I figured it would be good practice!

The next thing I needed to do was add the buttons. The jacket lapels have thirty four buttons on them in total, the shorts have two, the cuffs have sixteen. But before I could add them I had to make them, all fifty two of them. I purchased 7/8th inch coverable buttons HERE and spent two hours covering them with the cream material I’m making the hat from.


Then I sewed one whole side on and did a bit of a fit test.



I laid it flat and took several photos as well, the fancy seaming is easier to see on the inside.


I didn’t actually get around to sewing on the other side of buttons until last night, oops. But I did get started on the sleeves!

The sleeves themselves are pretty boring, but the cuffs are sort of snazzy. For each one I cut a piece of lining, which was sewn on, right sides together.


Then I pushed the lining up one quarter of an inch and pinned it, so it looks like piping.


Then I stitched on eight buttons, and sewed them to the jacket sleeves!


I also made shoulder pads out of two layers of quilt batting.


And with that, the only step left was hemming, and hand sewing. I spent two hours in front of the TV handsewing the shoulder pads in, buttons on, tacking down the cuffs, and hemming.

But when I was done, I had something pretty beautiful.

Behold, the pirate jacket!


I’m not entirely happy with the sleeves, but overall I love it a lot.


I don’t have photos of the finished outfit all together, but here are a few pictures of the bustier, tunic, shorts, socks, and wig together!


Hopefully I can get the hat and accessories finished, and if i’m lucky, photographed this weekend. 

Thanks for reading! 


13 thoughts on ““Pretty Pirate Project” – Part Three

    • Angela Clayton says:

      Draping sleeves is a really complicated process that i’m not very good at,so I don’t feel comfortable trying to explain it myself! I usually draft the shoulder curves on paper and turn that into a mock up. But after the mock up is made I end up altering them quite a lot (taking them in, adding length, shortening the shoulder curve etc.) to get them to lay nice.

  1. Lidz says:

    I have followed along with a couple of your garments, and I think I have learned more about techniques from your blog than any other place on the net. You do a great job showing the process of the techniques you use!

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