The Making of a Sakizo Inspired Historical Gown [Part 2]

 

 

jeff potoSo, two things about this costume, the first being that the titles have changed! I originally thought it this some French inspired design, but peoples insisted upon Italian Renaissance, and then others were saying it looks Russian so now i’m not even sure. I give up on attempting to label this dress.

The second thing is that this dress is technically unfinished. It isn’t accurate to the artwork I based it off of at all, but I like how it looks now and there isn’t much I want to change. Some might view this as lazyness…but honestly i’m just pleased with it. I feel like adding more stuff will take away from it and I don’t want that. So I suppose this is a Sakizo illustration INSPIRED design instead of an actual cosplay of her work.

Check out the previous the-making-of post relating to this costume!

[Part 1]

With that said….Moving on. 

Sleeves! These were by far the most difficult and time consuming part of this costume. The sleeves are made up of five main pieces, two small ones that lay over the shoulder, two puffy sleeve portions, and the elbow-to-wrist piece.

I put on the bodice and measured over my shoulder to find the length the top two sleeve pieces needed to be.  Then a drafted out how I thought they might look and hoped for the best. I made a mock up and altered it a little bit, but for the most part it was good!

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The top most piece is actually a base that piped strips get sewn onto. It looked like this when cut out.

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I cut out 2.75″ strips of my red sateen and folded over 1/2″ on each side giving me a 1.75 inch strip. Then I sewed piping onto each side. This part killed me since I actually had to use pins (so many), which I try to avoid as much as possible.

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Each strip was cut to the proper size, and eventually, sewn into place by stitching across each end.

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I machine stitched lace onto one side. The other side was folded over and hand sewn down, so no stitching actually shows.

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The second piece was much easier to deal with, as it was quite simple. It’s made from interfaced silk with an overlay of the same gold lace I used on the skirt. It was hand sewed to the other pieces lining so once again, no stitching is visible.

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Piece three and four were the most challenging, and took many frustrating hours to create. The actual pattern for these is a very simple one, and was drafted quite quickly and easily. I once again kind of lucked out on the pattern I drafted, I had to make it a little smaller, but for the most part I was happy with it.

Each sleeve was cut from red sateen and has two darts added to remove a bit of volume. Lines were marked out  four inches from eachother to create seven even rows. A gold x ivory twisted cording was hand sewn over each line.

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Then it came time to add poofs! Puffed trim, although quite simple in theory is one of my least favorite things to make. Here is a tutorial sheet describing how they can be made.

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For the sleeve puffs I used seven inch wide strips of silk that were double iron-folded on each side, creating a five inch wide strip with finished edges.

Then I hand gathered the strip every four inches to create very circular puffs. It took a lot, and I mean A LOT of testing to get a size that looked okay, but in the end I’m pretty pleased with it.

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The puffs get pinned in place

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And then sewn down. Once they are sewn into place I lightly press my iron over them, this way they stay more orderly.

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Each side of these were gathered with the zig zag method, and eventually stuffed with “doughnuts” made of quilt batting. They are like pillows which is kind of awesome.

The final, and easiest piece of the sleeve was patterned via draping. I took a piece of muslin and laid it over my arm, then pinned it until it was tight.

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Super pro patterning method right there.

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I cut that out of my red sateen and added cute little organza ruffles, trim, and piping to the point that lays over my hand. I also hand sewed a six inch zipper into the wrist so it fits tightly.

This is how one of the sleeves looked all sewn together

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…..

The bodice of my dress finally got fancied up, I added three mm rhinestones down the center of each red stripe and sewed on a pretty organza ruffle.

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Then I created MORE puffed trim and sewed that on, with pearl trim covering the gathers. I also created a properly sized flower trim, made of fake flowers that I cut apart and re-glued together. Flat backed pearls were glued down in the centers, and between the petals to make it look fancy.

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And how they looked sewn together.

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Once the bodice was finished I created a “roll” to go beneath it. This was made the same way as tier one of the sleeves. Strips of sateen with folded edges and piping machine stitched on each side.

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After each edge was secured, the 30″ strip was stuffed with a bit of quilt batting encased in sateen to make it poof out.

This was then sewn onto the skirt.

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Meanwhile, the skirt got a bit of fancy lace and cording sewn onto each front most red section. Both of these were hand sewed into place.  In addition to holding the trim on, the same stitches also secure the ivory portion of the skirt to the red ones.

The gorgeous lace was purchased here and the cording from here.

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The bodice was hand sewn on to roll/skirt, since there was so much boning I couldn’t do it by machine without breaking needles every two seconds. (trust me, I tried)

Eventually the sleeves were hand sewn onto the dress too. So much hand sewing.

.I also added a heavy duty zipper to serve as closure (not the one seen above, one that actually matched).  I had to hand baste it in place, then sew it down, which was kind of hellish but worked wonderfully.

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Once that was done I made the headdress super quickly. It has a structure of plastic boning, which was covered in quilt batting and a layer of red sateen.

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Then tiny puffed trim was made and sewn onto the front. And 8mm pearsl were sewn into the center of each poof.

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I also sewed on two organza ruffles, because ruffles are awesome. The gold trim was made from lace, which I cut apart and spray painted gold. Each circle of lace was threaded onto a piece of wire and glued from behind. The pearls are fake, flat backed, and glued down.

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And finished!

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I had several photoshoots with this costume, and the previews look amazing, but none of the actual photos have been posted. So here is a hall shot from yesterday to give you an idea of how it looked all finished. I seriously cannot wait to see photos of this from my shoots.

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Thanks for reading! I’ll have the final post on Royal Milk Tea up soon.

The Making of a Sakizo Inspired Historical Gown [Part 1]

 

Since I am apparently insane, I’ve decided to make another costume before Katsucon, which is less than three weeks away. It’s not even a simple costume – it’s actually pretty difficult and elaborate.

But it is also very, very pretty! 

This costume is of a Sakizo design…but it’s a very detailed oriented one so what I have sewn so far doesn’t look much like it (at least not yet). Because of this, I’ll post the reference picture i’m using in the next post relating to this costume.

I will probably have one or two more posts about this. It shouldn’t take me long to finish since everything is just detail work. The next post I made will talk about sleeves and beading so make sure to check back for updates!

I had draped a sweetheart neckline princess seamed bodice pattern a few weeks ago, which I decided would work well enough for this project. I actually took photos throughout the draping process since I get asked about pattern drafting a lot and plan to make a tutorial later.

Here are a few pictures, all you really do is pull, pin, draw, and cut the fabric until it’s the shape you want.

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When removed from the form the pieces looked like this.

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Once seam allowances were added I had a pattern!

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I know that seems like a lot of work, but it only takes twenty minutes or so.

I cut the pattern I had made out of muslin and measured out 1.5 inch stripes onto the pieces. I also sewed a mixture of metal and plastic boning into the bodice. Then I drew out the neckline I wanted.

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This is how the boning placement looked when flat. Most of it’s plastic but I did add a few metal stays.

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Once the boning was removed everything got labeled to make reassembly easier.

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And then each stripe was cut apart.

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And then I used those as a pattern for cutting out my fabric! I choose red cotton sateen, gold spandex, and an ivory silk satin for this project. All the materials have really nice textures and drape beautifully, plus I had them laying around. The spandex was reinforced so it doesn’t stretch.

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Once assembled it looks like so!

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I cut out the same pattern for lining and drew out the boning placement.

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With boning sewn in~

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Then it was attached to the bodice.

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And here it is just pinned, also ignore the flowers, they were a stand in.

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I had to go through and hand sew each seam down. This was made slightly less tedious by the fact I watched disney movies throughout working on it. And then pearls were sewn over each seam.

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At this point I cut out my skirt, the front consists of two 30×56″ panels of cotton sateen and a 40″x56″ panel of silk satin. I made the panels longer than they needed to be so I could add a large hem later on. I didn’t want any stiffening in the hem so this is a substitute to make it heavier.

I’m not sure why the stripes look uneven on the form…they are fine when worn.

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Then I cut out the train! I have never made a dress with a train before this so it was quite the experiment. I sort of marked out various measurements and then cut out what I thought looked okay, it wasn’t a very technical process.

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In the end I’m really happy with it, I think the shape is quite pretty!

[Please ignore how the top looks here]

UntitledNow that the base is done I can start on details mwaha. I got a bunch of trims on etsy which I’m super excited to add to this costume!

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One of the ones I bought was this cute flower trim, which I took my sewing shears to right away and separated the flowers from the main trim.

Also shout out to The Store, who sells all these gorgeous hand dyed gold venice lace.

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I took the flowers and pinned them onto the upper portion of the skirt in a randomized pattern that faded down

I didn’t like how it looked at first, but it grew on me. I ended up [i’m embarrassed to admit this] hot gluing them all into place. Hand sewing 100 tiny flowers on didn’t seem appealing at all, and I didn’t think it would look that great. The glue ended up working really well.

Then I pinned the hem and pinned on this gorgeous lace that I ordered from here.

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Sooo that’s everything for now.

Thank you for reading!