Recreating Renaissance Fashion, Isabel de Requesens

Here is part two of my velvet Isabel de Requesens dress! Today i’ll talk about the skirt and sleeves.

In addition to sharing photos and information I also have a short video about this costume!

I did my best to press “record” whenever I sat down to work on this costume, and though I didn’t manage to capture every step I ended up with a few hours of footage.  I edited it down, sped it up, and paired it with music.

The whole thing was easier then I had expected, and it’s something I would like to do again in the future. I’d like to film tutorials and stuff as well, but I think this is a good place to start considering my inexperience with filming and editing. I’m a bit out of my element here, so any comments or feedback would be very much appreciated!

If you are reading this in an email, here is the direct link where you can watch it! Otherwise it can be played below.

Onwards with the post!

The skirt was pretty easy, as usual with these things it’s just made from rectangles. I used three pieces of 40″ wide fabric cut to be around 58″ inches in length. The length was cut with a four inch hem and one inch seam allowance in mind.

DSC_7445

They were sewn together the way you would expect, then hemmed with a cross stitch. I’ve pretty much completely switched over to this stitch when it comes to hemming, it’s a little slower but the end result looks so much nicer then a whip stitch.

DSC_7446

DSC_7449

Then I went ahead and cartridge pleated the top, cartridge pleating velvet is honestly one of my favorite things. It’s so easy, satisfying, and the end result looks so sharp and pretty, even if you don’t measure beforehand.

DSC_7458

Once that was done I did a little dress form test and everything looked pretty even and good!

DSC_7459

I pinned the skirt to the bodice, then sewed them together.

DSC_7512After the skirt and bodice were attached I began focusing on the sleeves. These were hard since I didn’t want them to be so ridiculous that they were eating my hands, out of proportion to the skirt, and taking over the whole costume. I ended up making them about forty inches wide, and i’m pretty happy with that decision.

DSC_7463

Each sleeve was hemmed. I didn’t mind the raw edge since these were lined later on.

DSC_7465Then It came time for the bias tape, which was, by far, the most annoying part of this dress. I made it from lining material and organza, the same combo used to create piping on the bodice.

DSC_7475

Below you see my second attempt at sewing it on. My first attempt was done with 1/4″ stitching and the velvet completely disintegrated  during the pinning process. I ended up trimming the edge before trying again with a half inch stitch.

DSC_7482

The trim was folded over to create a quarter inch of visible gold.

DSC_7490Then it was all sewn into place with a blanket stitch. After that was done I added the lining, I don’t have any pictures of this process since it was done late in the afternoon and I couldn’t get a decent photo.

DSC_7505

I tacked the bias tape together every four and a half inches. This is where the buttons will go.DSC_7504

Then the buttons were sewn on. I opted for regular gold dome buttons since my attempts to paint them with the black design shown in my reference photo didn’t go well at all.

DSC_7508

The tops of each sleeve were gathered down with cartridge pleats. In the end the tops of each sleeve were only twelve inches!

DSC_7510

They were sewn onto the bodice and it was pretty much done! It still needs a back seem but you can get a good idea of how it looks from the pictures below. Unfortunately due to the nature of this bodice and the off-the-shoulders style it looks really poopy on my dress form.

I took a few mirror and webcam shots of it worn, and that’s as good as it gets for the time being.

DSC_7524

Photo on 7-8-14 at 4.11 PM #3

Photo on 7-8-14 at 4.11 PM

As you can see the neckline is kind of, uh, daring. Luckily the finished costume includes a higher neckline, thanks to a fancy collar which will be part of the chemise.

Photo on 7-8-14 at 4.16 PM

So that’s that! Still lots to do on this costume, but the most major part of it is complete.

Just as a warning, I’m not in a big rush to finish the chemise and make the hat. I have to wait a month for the wig to arrive, so I might switch things up and work on a different project for a bit.

I hope you enjoyed! Thanks for reading.

Related posts: Part One, Part Two, Part Three, Part Four, Part Five. 

Recreating Renaissance Fashion, Isabel de Requesens

A few things I would like to state before moving forward with this post: I have searched all over and keep getting conflicting information about this painting. What I do know for certain is that it was painted by Raphael and Gulio Romano in 1518. From what I can make out the painting was originally titled as Joanna of Aragon or Je’anne de Aragon, which is still the most frequently used title in English.

Italian and French sites state the painting is of Doña Isabel de Requesens, wife of Ramón de Cardona and the official title seems to be “Portrait of Isabella Requesens, Vice-Queen of Naples” (I know citing wikipedia isn’t the most professional way of doing things, but it has more information then any other site i’ve come across).

I’m still not entirely sure which is correct, if you have more information i’ll happily change the title!

I also want to mention that I will be changing a few things. My fabric colors were based off of this version of the painting, a restored “high key” version. My gold and reds are much brighter and lighter the shades in the original, but at the same time i’ve chosen an aged off white linen for the chemise, simply to avoid the “candy cane effect” of pairing white with bright red.

Speaking of the chemise – I have chosen to remove a few details to make the garment more versatile with other projects. There may be other minor changes as well. I want to accurately bring this painting to life but I really don’t want to end up with a garment I dislike, so it will be a delicate balance!

Now that all that has all been said!

I discovered this painting back in December when I was browsing art.com and fell in love. It’s from my favorite time period, it’s red, it has super huge sleeves and a hat. It also requires a large amount of embroidery, which made the project easier to justify (even though it kind of looks a lot like things I’ve made in the past).

If you are unfamiliar with the painting, this is it.

This first post is going to be about making the dress, then later on i’ll post about the chemise. This was an odd project since the chemise collar needed to be made before I could create the dress, but the dress needed to be finished before the chemise was made.

The collar was key in drafting this garment, since it provided the basic neckline shape.

I used cotton as usual to drape my pattern, this was slightly tricky since I wanted a three piece pattern, but with a lot of stretching and pinning I managed. I didn’t trim away the excess fabric since I was terrified of cutting the collar by mistake.

DSC_7426

DSC_7427

DSC_7428

 When it was removed from the dress form, it looked like this.

DSC_7429

I turned that into a paper pattern, which had to be altered a bit because it was large in the bust.

DSC_7432

 I cut my pattern out from velvet and lining material, and marked out all the boning channels.

DSC_7435

DSC_7436

Then I began folding strips of velvet and pinning them in place to serve as boning channels. Looking back on it I should have used a canvas or twill to support the boning, but my priority at this point was keeping the garment really lightweight.

DSC_7437

DSC_7444

Then they all got sewn down and boning was inserted.

These probably won’t be practical long term but oh my gosh this garment is so comfy because you feel the fluffy velvet instead of the bones again your skin.

DSC_7453I set this aside for a bit and began work on the outer bodice. After the shoulder seams were sewn together my next step was making and attaching piping.

I wanted the gold on this costume to be a really specific shade, in the 16th century there wasn’t really gold fabric (aside from brocades or embroidery). It was either pale yellow or almost orange, in this case it looks like a deep mustard color which I wasn’t fond of at all. So I opted for a pale yellow.

I used a layer of my lining fabric and organza to get this effect. I also pre-wrapped my cord in flannel to avoid the rope texture showing through.

DSC_7434

After the piping was made I very carefully stitched around the bodice neckline to create a finished edge I repeated this process on the bodice hem and arm holes as well.

DSC_7438

Then the piping was pinned in place and sewed on by hand.

DSC_7440

DSC_7442

The next step was pinning in the lining. This went really, really badly. It was too big, it had stretched, it was too long…it was just a mess. I finally got it pinned so it fit but the end result looked horrible. I ended up just going with it, but i’m really unhappy with how the interior of this costume looks.

DSC_7454

After that was done I embroidered eyelets in and tried it on for the first time! It was at this point I realized where my mock up had a fair amount of stretch, velvet does not. It had nearly four inches of skin showing in the back!

DSC_7499

I ended up adding a “modesty panel” in the back, but it was more like an extra panel since the skirt was sewed on to the panel as well.

DSC_7496

Once those were added I tried it on again and everything was good. It’s not as pretty as I would have liked it to be, and the interior is a bit of a mess. But i’m really happy with how the outside looks, so I can’t complain too much!

Thanks for reading!

Related posts: Part One, Part Two, Part Three, Part Four, Part Five.